When you’re a dishwasher at Gage & Tollner, there are not any gradual occasions. At this historic Brooklyn fine-dining restaurant, revived three years in the past, the eating room is all the time full, the kitchen doesn’t shut between lunch and dinner, and there are millions of dishes to rinse however restricted area to do it.
That’s the place we discovered Drevon Alston, who manages the dish pit. While cooks furiously organize oysters and clams on seafood platters and baste steaks with butter, Mr. Alston and his fellow dishwashers scrub pots, scrape char off grill grates and run stacks of plates up and down the steps. Mr. Alston desires of working his personal kitchen at some point. For now, he sits on the backside of the restaurant’s hierarchy, performing one in every of its most significant roles however decided to maneuver up.