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In the enterprise of reporting on and reacting to tradition — whether or not it’s theater, movie, music, books or eating places — finally one thing you write will find yourself in promotional promoting.
I’m a residing instance: If you’ve ever ordered a fish taco from Tacombi on a supply app, you then may need observed its description begins with “Voted ‘Absolute Best Fish Taco’ by New York Mag.”
Actually, there was no voting concerned; that was simply me, a singular meals author with an opinion to share and a bottomless urge for food for fish tacos. I wrote that checklist again in 2018, however my fascination with and appreciation for fish tacos (and fried fish basically) has by no means waned. If I see them on a menu, my thoughts is made up — and in the event you really feel the identical means then you realize that fish tacos occupy a really aggressive class of meals that merely should be reassessed on occasion.
A Reassessment of Tacombi
Here’s what I learn about a great fish taco: The fish is tender and surrounded by a shatteringly crunchy crust and a corn tortilla. It requires just some toppings: shredded cabbage, crema, pico de gallo and a spritz of lime juice. Back in 2018, Tacombi caught to that system and so they actually served the platonic perfect of an amazing fish taco. (Los Mariscos at Chelsea Market, Bar Bruno in Greenpoint and Carroll Gardens, and Tacoway Beach in Rockaway Beach took second, third and fourth place.) But within the years since, the Tacombi chain has expanded and the standard has fallen off a bit — generally the fish isn’t as crispy as I’d like or the tortilla falls aside in my palms. But it nonetheless has the excellence of serving one of the crucial broadly accessible, very first rate fish tacos town has to supply.
Multiple places
Riverside eating at Panzón
In rededicating myself to fish taco-ism, I used to be pointed within the course of two different prime candidates: Panzón in Greenpoint was one. You can discover this spot on the stretch of Greenpoint Avenue that dead ends on the East River. It’s extra bar than restaurant, with a concentrate on Mexican avenue snacks like esquites and flautas, and a wide-ranging cocktail, beer and pure wine menu.
But I got here for the fish tacos. At Panzón which means $24 for 3 Modelo-battered cod tacos topped with cilantro, pineapple, pico de gallo, crimson cabbage and salsa roja. While I want I may say that I loved them as a lot as my mezcal Negroni, the fish kind of disappeared beneath all these toppings and left me wanting extra, effectively, fish. When I inevitably return to Panzón on a blazing summer season day, will probably be as an alternative for the tuna tostadas peppered with every thing seasoning and tossed in chipotle adobo mayo — and several other extra mezcal Negronis.
23 Greenpoint Avenue (Franklin Street)
Fish as a way of life at Ensenada
Then there’s Ensenada, in Williamsburg. Seafood isn’t only a passing curiosity at Ensenada — named for town in Baja California — it’s an obsession, proper right down to the ocean-blue inside. In addition to the requisite fish tacos, there are tacos de camarones (shrimp), ceviches, aguachiles, complete fish entrees and tostadas.
Here, the fish tacos price $8 every, a value that can look like a downright deal when you lay eyes on the comically giant hunk of fried cod utilized in these tacos. It completely dwarfs the tortilla and wears the cabbage, pico de gallo and crema like costume jewellery. The fish inside that crackly shell is meltingly tender, a lot in order that it fell out of the taco as I used to be consuming. But that simply means forking it so not one little bit of cod is left behind. You’re going to need to order not less than two.
And realizing all I learn about fish tacos on this metropolis, that is my favourite — not less than for now.
168 Borinquen Place (South Second Street)
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